“Oh, the pine crickets are chirping,
Chirp-chirp, chirp-chirp,
Chirp-chirp-ling ♪
Oh, the bell crickets are chirping too,
Ring-ring, ring-ring,
Ring-ring-ling ♪…”
This is one of the songs taught to lower primary school pupils in Japan.
The title is ‘The Voice of autumn Insects’. It is a song expressing the heartfelt affection for the chirping of insects, which can be heard here and there with the arrival of autumn.
The sentiment of feeling affection or sensing the changing seasons through the sounds of tiny insects or the croaking of frogs is a phenomenon observed in many cultures, yet the Japanese seem particularly prone to such sentimental attachments to nature.
A similar custom is ‘紅葉狩り / Momiji-Gari / autumn leaves viewing’. It is an outing to appreciate the beauty of trees turning red from late October to November.
（※Momiji-Gari is also known as Kōyō.）
Of course, the custom of enjoying autumn foliage exists in countries other than Japan, but for the Japanese, autumn leaves are both a symbol of autumn and an indispensable seasonal tradition.
When the mountains, hitherto cloaked in deep green, become enveloped in shades ranging from orange to vivid red, and even the town’s street trees turn amber, we Japanese feel a sense of sentimentality alongside the splendour of nature’s artistry.
If time permits, we venture out with family or loved ones for Momiji-Gari.
And some, seeking further refinement, even view the autumn colours at night.
To go out specifically to see beautiful, vivid colours, yet deliberately choose the night when they are hardest to see… At first glance, it seems like an irrational act. Yet the autumn foliage, illuminated here and there in the darkness of night, must offer a fantastical and uniquely exquisite beauty.
And there, the cool chirping of bell crickets can faintly be heard, no doubt serving to accentuate the profound beauty of the autumn night…
Asuka Village, situated in the central part of Nara Prefecture, holds a unique significance within Japan’s history.
Some 1,400 years ago, it served as the capital for approximately a century. It is also said that the name ‘Japan’ originated during this period. （In Japan, the hundred-year period when the capital was located in the Asuka region is referred to as the Asuka period.）
While extensive archaeological research over many years has yielded considerable insights, its great antiquity means much remains unexplained. This very mystery only serves to heighten the romantic allure of its history.
It is also the only village in Japan where the entire settlement is designated under the Historic Areas Preservation Act.
This region has preserved numerous ancient ruins, as it was home to large settlements even before the Asuka period and was a place where the influence of the original royal authority was strong.
The ‘Ishibutai Tumulus’ represents Asuka Village’s most significant archaeological site. Its distinctive form remains, with the earthen mound that once covered it having eroded away, leaving only the internal stone chamber. Within an area measuring 12 metres by 2.5 metres, two massive stones weighing 77 tonnes and 64 tonnes respectively were used as the ceiling, leaving behind a stone chamber weighing a total of 2,300 tonnes.（Estimated value）
It is thought to be the tomb of ‘Soga no Umako’, an influential figure of ancient times, though this remains uncertain. It is a rare archaeological site where visitors can enter as far as the burial chamber itself, and I have visited it several times myself.
The ‘Takamatsuzuka Tumulus’ is a small burial mound discovered in the latter half of the 20th century. It became a nationally significant site due to the remarkably vivid murals preserved within its stone chamber.
The tumulus was discovered in 1970 when villagers in Asuka Village, while digging an underground cellar to naturally store ginger, struck the stone chamber. Investigations confirmed it had been looted centuries earlier, yet the murals within the stone chamber, known as the ‘Group of Women on the West Wall’, remained intact.
Given the chamber’s narrowness – barely large enough for two adults to crouch inside – and the risk of wall collapse due to sudden humidity changes, the murals are now housed in a storage facility and displayed to the public there. They are scheduled to be returned to their original location once complete restoration is achieved and the mound’s safety is assured.
The ‘Oni no Manaita/Ogre’s Cutting Board’ and ‘Oni no Settin/Ogre’s Latrine’ are two small stone structures in a corner of Asuka Village, each possessing a unique shape.
Legend has it that this area was once called ‘Mist Hill’. Travellers passing through would be enveloped in thick fog conjured by Ogre, who would then lead them astray and devour them.
The place where they chopped up and cooked their victims is known as ‘Ogre’s Cutting Board’, while the spot where they relieved themselves is called ‘Ogre’s Latrine’…
Originally, investigations revealed that these two ruins are the remains of a large ancient burial mound whose surface embankment has been lost and whose stone structure has collapsed.
Though inspired by the unique shape of the ruins, this folk tale seems witty despite its cruel content.
Following the era in which these ancient ruins were constructed, Buddhist culture flourished with the full establishment of the Asuka period, and numerous temples were built.
Temples such as Asuka-dera, Oka-dera, and Tachibana-dera are likely representative examples. （Tera/Dera / Temple）
All suffered destruction from lightning strikes and the ravages of war during their 1,400-year history, yet the present Buddhist halls still possess over 500 years of history.
Amongst them, Okadera Temple is renowned for the beauty of its seasonal blooms and is also a famous spot for Momiji-Gari, attracting many visitors around mid-November.
Furthermore, from late November, it hosts a unique, fantastical event combining night-time Momiji-Gari with illuminations.
『Momiji-Gari Illuminations: “Pilgrimage of Light”』
Held from dusk, when the sun dips below the ridgeline, at 17:00 until 21:00 (last entry 20:30). Hundreds of bamboo lanterns illuminate the night, alongside colourful Japanese umbrellas emitting a soft glow. Projection mapping adds to the magic. The tunnel of autumn leaves stretching from the triple pagoda to the gate tower is also a major highlight.
There, you will surely hear the cool sounds of insects.
While a journey exploring ancient romance in the refreshing breeze holds its own charm,
surrendering oneself to events woven from darkness and light is another delight.
One facet of Japan’s autumn unfolds there…